Rebuilding the garage doors

1. Support the leaf securely before releasing its hinges. Mark LEFT or RIGHT, TOP, OUTSIDE and the hinge edge. Photograph the hardware positions and record the existing gaps.
2. Lower the leaf onto flat, padded supports. Remove the skins carefully to preserve sound framing, joints and braces.
3. Inspect for decay, splits, loose joints and twist. Mark the actual repairs before ordering or cutting replacement timber.

Check The original frame layout and hardware positions are recorded. The leaf is flat and every proposed repair is identified.

1. Use 2×4 timber laid flat: actual 3½ in face and 1½ in depth. Crosscut the replacement blanks square; retain the stock width.
2. Remove the outside half of each upright at the three rail positions, and the inside half of each rail at its two ends. Use the cut map below and mark from one squared reference end.
3. Trial-fit the joints. Both faces must finish flush and the shoulders must touch. Clamp the leaf flat at the provisional 127.565 × 213.865 cm outline; the two reference diagonals are 249.020 cm.
4. Complete the selected joint connection and racking reinforcement for the actual timber and door load before adding skins.

Check The frame is square and flat, with its joint fastenings and resistance to sag resolved. The full rail length includes the end overlaps.

1. Place the actual hardware templates on the frame and mark the mounting holes, clearances and keeper positions.
2. Align loaded fixings with sound rails or uprights. Where needed, add securely connected full-depth backing to the actual hole pattern within the 1½ in core.
3. Install access-dependent fasteners, nuts and backing plates now. Update the foam cuts and final weight allowance for the added pieces.

Check Every loaded fixing reaches sound door framing and a suitable structural jamb. Foam and thin plywood are not hinge backing.

1. Dry-fit the 15/32 in main panel and matching strip on the flat frame. Mirror the pair so both narrow strips are at the center.
2. Hold the 0.32 cm reference joint with removable spacers. Both plywood edges and the whole narrow strip must bear on the meeting upright.
3. Mark the timber lines on the face and fix each plywood piece independently with the selected skin-to-frame connection. Remove the spacers once the strip is held.
4. Keep the seam free of rigid filler or a continuous rigid glue bridge. The decorative trim will cover it later.

Check Recalculate strip width from the actual leaf width, usable main-panel width and selected joint gap. The reference calculation is 127.565 − 121.92 − 0.32 = 5.325 cm.

1. Turn the leaf only when the exterior-skin bonding system permits handling. Set its outside face on padded, flat supports.
2. Cut and trial-fit 1½ in rigid foam to the actual cavities. Allow room for adhesive bedding so the foam cannot bow the inside lining.
3. Use an adhesive approved for the exact foam, facing and substrate. Follow its application, retention and full-cure instructions.

Check A straightedge across the timber does not rock on proud foam. Confirm the selected insulation’s covering requirements before closing the inside.

1. Dry-fit the main lining and matching strip with the same supported seam at the meeting upright.
2. Transfer all timber and backing lines to the lining. Fix into wood using the selected lining connection, seating the heads without crushing or pulling through the veneer.
3. Keep the leaf supported flat for the required cure. Check its diagonals, face flatness, exposed edges and remaining hardware access.

Check The thin lining is not structural hinge backing. Its suitability as a protective covering depends on the selected insulation product.

1. Dry-fit the vertical T1 pieces first. Fit T2 between them with square 90° ends. Transfer one common horizontal reference across the closed pair.
2. Mark the hidden timber and clamp the trim. The proposed screw row follows the strip centerline, 3.75 cm from its long edge.
3. For this decorative-trim proposal, use 10 screws per T1 and 6 per T2: 76 for both doors. Place the first and last 5 cm from the ends and space the rest evenly.
4. Test the screw head and drilling on matching offcuts. Drive slowly to flush. At the plywood seam, keep trim fixings on the narrow-strip side and stagger them to miss the earlier skin screws.

Check Example hardware: exterior-compatible GRK FIN/Trim #8 × 1½ in, T10 drive. The proposed count retains decorative trim; it is not a frame, skin or hinge fastening schedule.

1. Sand, remove dust and ease sharp exposed edges enough for coating coverage without changing joint bearing or fit.
2. Follow the selected exterior finish system on both faces, all four door edges, trim ends and cut plywood edges. Preserve any areas that must remain bare for a later bond.
3. Allow the stated cure. Reseal new cuts and drilled preparations after later fitting and hardware work.

Check Inspect the top and bottom edges while the leaf is still on supports. Use the coating manufacturer’s coverage and cure instructions.

1. Weigh each leaf in pounds with all fitted parts, and include the measured weight of anything still to be added. Confirm the hinges, joints, fasteners and jamb for the actual width, weight and exterior exposure.
2. With a helper and secure support equipment, position the left leaf and then the right. Keep the leaves level with each other and the hinge axes aligned.
3. Use the actual hinge template and specified fasteners. Keep the doors supported while checking the complete outward swing over the highest floor point.

Check Three hinges per leaf are a planning count, not a capacity rating. The 3D model’s ideal hinge axes are not drilling templates.

1. Close and secure the left leaf, then align the right. Select the actual gasket before setting the spacer thickness.
2. Fit the cover and spacer ends to the head and bottom weather details. Fasten into the right meeting timber only; stagger the holes to miss earlier fixings.
3. Fit the gasket under the free overlap. An example cover fixing is exterior-compatible GRK FIN/Trim #8 × 2 in. The proposal uses 10 additional screws, about 5 cm from fitted ends and evenly spaced.
4. Keep the cover removable for gasket servicing. Open the right door first and check that the overlap releases freely from the left.

Check No screw or rigid glue joint crosses into the left leaf. Fit pulls and latches to suitable framing rather than the thin cover.

1. Fit the top and bottom bolts to the left door, the active latch to the right, and a pull and hold-open device to each door. Secure loaded hardware into suitable backing.
2. Fit the head and jamb seals to sound stops. Fit the bottom seals to the floor or threshold without using them to support the doors.
3. Connect the center gasket to the head and bottom weather details. Check continuous contact, free movement and edges that shed water.

Check The latch should close without lifting a leaf. Seals must not bind or trap water along the lower edge.

1. To open: unlatch and open the right door, release the left bolts, then open the left. Secure both with their hold-open devices.
2. To close: close the left door and secure its bolts, then close and latch the right door over the center gasket.
3. Check the full swing, hinge anchors, latch, even gasket contact and finished edges. Support and adjust any door that rubs, drops or loads the latch.

Check Record actual sizes, leaf weights, hinge models and fastener specifications. Recheck after initial use and seasonal weather changes.